The lips, covered in very delicate skin, require continuous care and protection. The upcoming Fall – Winter period with its variable aura and temperature peaks, during which we are prone to reduced systemic resistance, facilitates lip parching and chapping, as well as cold sores. This is why our lips need to be taken care of. In such a time of need one may find it useful to keep around various preparations based on natural resources: plant oils, bee wax and honey, as well as herbal extracts.

Plant fats, also called oils, constitute mixtures of glycerin with higher fatty acids. In terms of chemistry, they are fatty acid triglycerides, and their activity and biological “value” depends on the kind of fatty acid residue. Fats may constitute saturated acids, such as palmitic or stearic acids, characteristic of animal fats, as well as unsaturated acids of various quality and the location of double bonds in the particle (for example, oleic, linoleic, linolenic, arachidonic acid).

The characteristics of an oil and its biological properties depend on the percentage of specific acids. Some of the unsaturated fatty acids belong to the group of the so called essential unsaturated fatty acids (EUFA), have a basic role in human metabolism. EUFA are characterized by their beneficial effects on the skin, good absorbency and anti-allergenic properties. Valuable sources of EUFA are: avocado, almond, linseed, peach, grape, nut, and wheat sprout oils, as well as oleum oenotherae.

Plant oils are used in cosmetics because of their bio-cosmetic qualities, but also as a base which allows the introduction of other active substances. Externally applied oils cover the skin with a thin protective layer, protecting it against loss of water and thus preventing loss of elasticity. Certain oils may also have a beneficial effect in cases of skin inflammation by reducing tissue tension.

Waxes have a similar role as oils. On their chemical level, natural waxes are higher fatty acid and higher alcohol esters. In comparison with fatty acid triglycerides, waxes are much more durable substances. They are resistant to saponification while being heated in lye solutions, they do not become rancid, and are often used in the production of cosmetics. Waxes are essentially solids. The only liquid wax with cosmetic significance is an oil extracted from jojoba, characterized by very high durability and beneficial cosmetic properties. The material received from jojoba seeds contains approximately 50% liquid wax, whose primary constituent is cetyl palmitate with very beneficial properties and value similar to the much sought after whale fat. Another constituent of jojoba oil is squalan which has anti-fungal qualities.

Out of many bee products honey deserves special attention. There are reports in professional medical journals regarding healing of wounds, burns and various purulent ailments with the help of honey. As it turns out, a honey bandage may often have better medicinal effects than the commonly used health care preparations intended to speed up healing. Honey facilitates healing of wounds through quicker granulation, it has an anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory effect, soothes pain, facilitates epithelialisation, helps wounds to properly scar over, and removes unpleasant odors. The time needed to heal wounds using honey is usually half the time required when using classic methods. The use of honey has for some time now been highly regarded in Western Europe countries and is successfully used in numerous clinics all over the world.

Facilitation of healing processes through herbal means does not require recommendation. The properties and possibilities of Echinacea purpurea use in cosmetics will be the subject of a separate article. Apart from facilitating the organism’s immune system (which in the case of dermatological products means an increased ability of the skin to regenerate and raised resistance to external factors), they show anti-inflammatory and antiviral effects, are good for treating skin inflammations, eczema, burns, wounds, cold sores and ulceration. Those interested in more thorough familiarization with the plant’s properties are encouraged to read the Torfarm magazine article titled “Application of the immunologic and health care properties  of the Echinacea purpurea”.

Melissa (Melissa officinalis L.) is a well known herbalist resource. Numerous research has proved its tranquilizing, anti-spasm and antiviral effects. Melissa’s primary active component is an ethereal oil (up to 0,375% content) which includes monotrepene aldehydes: geranium aldehyde, neroli aldehyde and citronella. Melissa also contains various acids: caffeic, chlorogenic, and especially rosmarinus acid (up to 4%) and triterpenes (ursolic acid and oleanolic acid), tannins and flavonoids. Melissa herbal extracts used internally will affect the central nervous system and are used as a mild tranquilizer, facilitating sleep, as well as a painkiller and symptomatic remedy in cases of gastro-enteritis. Melissa extracts used externally show antiviral and antioxidant effects and have the ability to dispose of free radicals. Introduces into ointments and creams, they are helpful in curing cold sores.

Silymarin, which constitutes a standardized combination of flavonolignans, procured from Silybum marianum, is a mixture of substances including silibinin, dehydrosilybin, silydianin and silychristin. For many years silymarin has been successfully used in cases of liver inflammation and cirrhosis and drug-induced or toxic liver flesh damage. Many years of pharmacological and clinical research have confirmed the multidirectional biological and therapeutic activity of silymarin. Primarily, it positively affects liver cell metabolism, also showing protective, medicinal and regenerative effects. It is confirmed that silymarin has anti-hypoglycemic, anti-inflammatory, anti-allergenic and anti-oxidizing properties, in addition to being able to dispose of free radicals. In dermatology and cosmetics this compound may be used in cases of skin inflammation.

All properties of natural resources presented in this article were incorporated by Herba Studio in the TISANE lip balm. This balm is intended for the care of dry, parched and chapped lips. It contains plant oils and beeswax which effectively protect lips against moisture loss, as well as vitamin E and honey, which nourish damaged epidermal cells and facilitate their regeneration. A UV filter protects from harmful ultraviolet radiation. However, the most important component of this balm is an extract from three herbs: Melissa, Echinacea purpurea and silybum. The balm’s composition allows it not only to protect the lips against harmful aura influences, but also heal the occurring epidermal damage, parching and chapping of lips, as well as irritation around the nose. Used in early stages of cold sores, the balm prevents its development and in more advanced stages alleviates the adverse effects and speeds up healing. The balm also soothes irritation caused by insect stings and bites. During the winter period the balm is recommended to skiers and all other winter activity enthusiasts.